BRECHIN The Ancient City

The Past 2,000 Years


A GLIMPSE INTO THE PAST 2,000 YEARS AS BRECHIN APPROACHES THE NEW MILLENNIUM


The Picts              The Roman Centurions Song


THE PICTS

With the year 2,OOO A.D.fast approaching many events are being arranged to celebrate our entry into the New Millennium.  Before this year comes to an end it would be interesting to journey back through to the beginning of the last two millennia by visiting actual areas of interest in and around the Ancient City Of Brechin, Angus, Scotland and visit some of the sites where our ancestors lived, battlefields where they fought, and many of the settlements and great artworks left by them and their enemies and others who passed this way.

To learn about the story of the past and the ways of life of the people we must consult the historical books of some of the eminent historians from our own area, such as D.H.Edwards; D.D.Black: William Gerrard Don, M.D. of Maulesden House near Brechin, former Deputy Surgeon of the British Army and Navy and Medical Staff.  He was a great local historian and botanist who travelled throughout the Glens and Cairngorm Mountains of the area in his quest for knowledge of the stories and beauty associated with it.  Other knowledge can be gained from the records of the Latin historian Tacitus, who was son-in-law of the Roman Agricola who led his Legions north, from the Roman occupied south of Britain, to here and into this, the Pictish Heartland and beyond.

First we must turn back some pages in the actual history of our ancestors the Picts or, Picti, who were described as such by the soldiers of Rome due to their liking for painting or tattooing their faces and bodies by pricking their skin with pointed instruments, probably thorns, the punctures then being filled with blue woad and other vegetable mineral dyes.  The Picts were descended from hunter gatherers who sailed to what we now know as Scotland as early as the sixth century B.C.

Pictish design drawn with charcoal from fires over 2,000 years ago. Excavated on Catterthun.

Without going into the different tribes, The Pictish Heartland covered a large area of Scotland, from the area of Inverness to Fraserburgh in the north, down the east coast to the River Forth and west to Stirling and from there back up North to Inverness.  There was no definite border as the Picts had spread widely over Scotland but within that area was the main areas of Pictish settlement in which we of the north-east of Scotland are interested.

This area was separated by the Mounth Highlands or Grampian Mountains running from west to east, the name "Mons Grapius" being recorded by Tacitus.  In the area of the Tay, Strathmore, and Mearns valleys, the name of the Pictish tribe was the Venicones.  Here, around Brechin, Aberlemno, St. Vigeans, Letham, and in many mountain and glen areas are relics of Pictish life.  Remains of Pictish encampments are evident, the White and Brown Catterthuns lie five miles North of Brechin, and in the other areas mentioned are standing stones with beautiful carvings of battle scenes, and many other portrayals of the history of the Picts.  Standing beside those ancient relics of an ancient civilisation, especially on a mountainside looking down into a valley gives you a feeling of wanting to know more about our past history, and for that we can go back to the writings of the Roman Historian, Tacitus and one of his records, "The Agricola and The Germania".

In 672 A.D., after the Anglian king Ecgfirth defeated a Pictish army and many of the Pictish leaders.  In 685 this defeat was avenged at the Battle of Nechtansmere by a Pictish army under the leadership of the Pictish warrior Bridei at Nechtansmere, a Pictish stronghold and encampment near Dunnichen, Letham, Angus in 685.  The Picts massacred the Northumbrian army, trapping them in the mere (swamp) of Nechtansmere.  Nearby, warriors of both sides are carved on some of the ancient stones.

Dunnichen Hill - Fortress of the Picts led by King Brudei.  In the foreground is the area of the battle where Northumbrians under King Ecgfirth were lured into Nechtansmere and defeated.

Some years ago a well known magazine carried the story of a local lady who had been travelling home to Letham when her car broke down and she continued her journey by foot.  As she was passing the site of the Battle of Nechtansmere in the small hours after midnight and there being a moon, she was surprised to see human figures moving across the field on the site of. the ancient battlefield of Nechtansmere. But, these were no ordinary modern beings. They were Pictish warriors, recognisable by their painted faces and bodies, and the painted designs had all the appearance of being Pictish.  After watching these warriors carrying their dead comrades from the battlefield, the lady continued her journey to her home in Letham village, one mile distant.  She was later interviewed by experts on the history of the Picts and was able to describe the painted designs and, strangely, some of those described along with others were authentic designs which had been stored in the vaults of the Nation's museums and had never been looked at for many years.  I certainly do believe this really happened and would dearly like to have witnessed the scene.

A visit to the White Catterthun, five miles North of Brechin, to the ancient encampment of the Picts is a wonderful experience at any time, as is a walk to the Brown Catterthun Fort one mile east.  Situated at the foot of the higher Grampian mountains to the north ,the Forts and collapsed stone walls and former ramparts are very interesting.  The White Catterthun stands 298 metres high.  The interior of the fort is a large heather grass area oval in shape with the remains of a partially filled in well at the western end of the fort.

Brown Catterthun, 5 miles north of Brechin

White Catterthun, 5 miles north of Brechin

The collapsed ramparts on the western side of the fort has, lying flat on the hillside, a huge boulder with over seventy man-made indentations or cup marks which have been carved out of the surface of the stone.  The marks do not seem to form any identifiable pattern and various ideas have been given as to their purpose - a map of stars or positions of the Moon - a plan of settlements in the valleys below - a method of counting - a stone for sharpening tools or weapons - even something to do with sacrificial or other rituals.  Noone has been able to solve the riddle of the ancient carved stone on White Catterthun.

Boulder with cup marks on western ramparts of White Catterthun

The view from the top of both the White and Brown Forts on Catterthuns, on a clear day, is wonderful and on a moonlight night even more so.  With the moon over the North Sea near Montrose the valleys and mountains are bathed in light.  The sea and East Coast stretching from Stonehaven in the north to Arbroath to the south with many villages and towns lying in the valleys of the Mearns and Strathmore.  Wonderful views of the Grampian Mountains rising to 640 metres only a few miles north and forming the barrier of the Mounth with its many ancient drove roads and passes used by armies long ago.  These were also used by the many seasonal harvest cutters making their way from and to the Highlands to cut the crops using a hand sickle, long before the invention of the mechanical reapers etc.  Cattle and sheep were brought over these rugged passes from the highlands for sale in the markets in the south.  The famous annual Taranty or "Trinity Fair" near Brechin being the most famous in Scotland for hundreds of years but now only a two day gathering of amusement machines etc. and a shadow of it's former self.

According to Tacitus ,the great battle of the Romans with the Caledonians, which was fought between the Roman Governor of Britain in A.D. 84 and his battle hardened troops and Calgacus and his fierce tribesmen, took place in the valley South of the Grampian Mountains.  It is thought to have taken place in the strath or valley south of the Catterthuns and north of Brechin.  There is plenty of evidence to support this theory.  The outlines of a great Roman Military Camp and a Marching Barracks have been photographed from the air near Inchbare, a village between Brechin and Edzell.  Further credence is added to support the evidence by another of the same type showing the outline of a Roman Barracks and Harbour on the edge of the estuary of the River South Esk where it flows into the North Sea, formerly the German Ocean.  The Romans preferred to sail within sight of their fleet for obvious reasons.  They could be supplied with food, weapons and more men if required.  Agricola sent his fleet along the East Coast.  He then landed extra troops when he found out that a large army of Native Tribesmen were encamped in the valley south of the Grampian Mountains and at their head was their leader Calgacus.  A fierce battle took place during which the native troops under Calgacus suffered a heavy defeat.  At first their chariots threw the Romans into confusion, but soon the infantry and charioteers of the experienced, disciplined Romans turned the tables by bringing their cavalry into action.  In the Battle of Mons Grapius the army of Calgacus is said to have lost 10,000 troops and the Roman army under Julius Agricola, Emperor of Roman Britain around 400.  There is some difference of opinions regarding the actual site of the battle and again I am of the opinion that our early historians had more knowledge of the facts than those nowadays, who seem to have reasons for changing opinions according to the latest book.  Indeed, a book recently published has no mention of any Roman activity in this area regardless of aerial photographs and excavations by eminent historians and archaeologists during the 1950s/60s proving to the contrary that there was much activity in the area on land and sea.

Part of the old Roman Road, built in A.D. 84, at Stracathro near Brechin

There have been archaeological excavations of the Catterthuns recently.  More stone ramparts were uncovered and wooden entrywalks between the stones.  The wood had been burned and the archaeologists said it could have been as a result of an attack on the Forts at the Catterthuns encampment.

This has only been a brief history of the Picts, and the accounts of how they lived varies from writer to writer.  I, however, believe the recorded history as written by the Roman historian, Tacitus and the books written by local historians and local scholars of the past two centuries, who had nothing to gain but the great satisfaction of knowing their accounts of their area's history would be passed on to future generations.  They were educated, well learned men who had the means and abilities to travel and explore their native areas.  No modern carbon-dating and other such types of equipment for them. The knowledge they had was handed down directly through generations of their ancestors.

    

Sculptured stone-cross slab (front and rear) in Aberlemno churchyard 8 miles south of Brechin.  Carved in 8th Century A.D. it bears a Celtic-type cross, decorated with interlace and flanked by entwined beasts on the face depicting a battle scene.  The rear of the stone shows battlescenes at Nechtansmere in 685 A.D.

The history of this whole area can be found by reading the books of the writers aforementioned.  Most were written and printed over one hundred years ago and luckily some can still be found to purchase.  Printing began in Brechin in the very early 1800's.  The first Printing establishment, telegraph office, and, shipping agency having been established by my Gt. Gt. Gt. Gt. Grandfather, Alexander Black.  I also have other relatives in Brechin so connected.

There is much history and folklore and ancient relics of the Pictish Nation in this area to interest people from all over the Globe.  A new centre telling the story of the Picts has been now opened at Brechin Castle Centre which already has many leisure attractions and a large indoor and outdoor restaurant.  Situated one and a half miles West of Brechin it can be easily reached by leaving the A90 dual carriageway which runs from Edinburgh to Aberdeen close to Brechin and taking the A935 and passing through Brechin.  The historical centre is interesting enough and has modern facilities as an aid to describing the lives and ways of the Picts.  I, however, like to explore the actual sites of the original settlements, battlefields, original carved stones of which there are many in this area.  I have taken some pictures to accompany this short insight into this period of history. Anyone interested can contact me for further information and photos and maps of the areas.

            

Two separate stones at Aberlemno village.  The carvings on the stone on the left show a snake, Z-rod sign, double- and single-mirror signs.  On the right stone are typical Pictish symbols; crescent, double mirror sign, broken Z-rod.  There are also cavalry, trumpeters, various animals and a stag at the bottom - possibly depicting the victory at Nechtansmere.

            

Two more separate stones.  The one on the left at Aberlemno village showing a cross with adoring angels on either side and mythical beasts at the bottom.  The stone on the right is at Dunnichen near Brechin.  This stone shows Z-rods, a bird-like figure, fish, double mirror and comb symbols.

There are various interpretations of the symbols and markings e.g. Z-rods represent the status of a Chief after death and immortality.  A double-disc represents a King or Queen. A mirror or comb is a woman of high status.  Birds and animals have various interpretations.  In Pictish culture the female lineage was superior to the male.

This article will be continued with a series of pages describing the events of Brechin and District's past, especially it's military history, up to the end of World War II, and ending in the years of the Cold War and the United States Navy at R.A.F. Edzell, and have the brief details told before the New Millennium.


A poem by Rudyard Kipling.  A great poet, who wrote on many subjects.  One of his finest books, I believe, is, "Ballads of Battle".

THE ROMAN CENTURION'S SONG

(ROMAN OCCUPATION OF BRITAIN, A.D.300)

Legate, I had the news last night-my Cohort ordered home

By ship to Portus Itius and thence by road to Rome.

I've marched the companies aboard, the arms are stowed below:

Now let another take my sword.  Command me not to go!

I've served in Britain forty years, from Vectis to The Wall.

I have none other home than this, nor any life at all.

Last night I did not understand, but now the hour draws near,

That calls me to my native land, I feel that land is here.

Here where men say my name was made, here where my work was done;

Here where my dearest dead are laid - my Wife- my Wife and Son:

Here where time, custom, grief and toil, age memory, service, love,

Have rooted me in British soil.  Ah how can I remove ?

For me this land, that sea, these airs, those folk and fields suffice.

What purple Southern pomp can match our changeful Northern skies?

Black with December snows unshed or pearled with August haze,

The clanging arch of steel-grey March, or June's long-lighted days?

You'll follow widening Rhodanus till vine and olive lean

Aslant before the sunny breeze that sweeps Nemausus clean

To Arelate's Triple Gate: but let me linger on

Here where our stiff-necked British Oaks confront Euroclydon!

You'll take the old Aurelian road through shore descending pines

Where, blue as any Peacock's neck, the Tyrrhene Ocean shines.

You'll go where Laurel Crowns are won, but will you e'er forget

The scent of Hawthorn in the sun, or Bracken in the wet?

Let me work here for Britain's sake - at any task you will -

A marsh to drain, a road to make or native troops to drill.

Some Northern camp ( I know the Pict) or granite border keep,

Mid seas of Heather derelict, where our old messmates sleep.

Legate, I come to you in tears - My Cohort ordered home!

I've served in Britain forty years, what should I do in Rome?

HERE is my heart, my soul, my mind - the only life I know.

I Cannot Leave It All Behind.  Command Me Not To Go!

Centurion = Leader of one hundred men in the Roman army.

Legate = A Deputy of a General, or a a Governor or Deputy Governor of a Province.

Cohort = An ancient Roman military unit,equal to one tenth of a Legion.

Legion = A division of 3,000 - 6,000 men, including a complement of Cavalry, in the ancient Roman Army.


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